Alex’s Wakhan Diaries – Day 2

A tough day. We came in sight of Hindu Kush, pushing through 110k on dodgy roads with steep hills, the intensity of the climbing increased by the altitude. A morning’s ride brought us to Ishkashim, the site of a well known border market, where Afghans and Tajiks flog their wares on an island in the middle of the River Panj. Unfortunately it was closed, so I headed to Ishkashim bazaar to pick up a pair of obscenely bright woolly socks (pictures will follow). We headed off down the road towards another hot springs, where we hoped to finish the day, but flagged, again dashing our hopes of ending the day with our feet dangling in balmy mountain waters! Looking for somewhere to pitch our tent, we were welcomed by a family to stay in their house. We accepted, but decided to cook our own food, as Pamiris are both very poor and very hospitable, a combination which can put considerable pressure on hosts. But they insisted we have black tea, welcoming us into their dining room, a
five pillared hall, festooned with carpets, and sheltered beneath a sturdy diamond arrangement of overlapping beams. This was followed unexpectedly by a delicious potato stew with carrot (?) and mutton fat (the lady of the house insisted that as cyclists, we needed it), and a solid night’s sleep.

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