Day 4: Dushanbe Blues

I woke with new resolve, fired by the hospitality of the previous day (and the strong sweet green tea we had for breakfast) and peddled hard into Denau, where I arrived in time for a mid morning snack of delicious samsa, and pushed on to the border. I crossed with no problem (the Uzbek border guards clearly took one look at my battered bicycle and bushy beard and decided there was no point in asking for hotel registration slips). The Tajik side was a combination of beautiful new road, being built by the Chinese (whether on contract to the Tajik government, or simply to improve transport links for the heavy traffic of Chinese trucks with passes through Tajikistan, it wasn’t
clear), and appalling gravel mountains. This made for interesting riding into Dushanbe, but felt worth it when I topped the final hill before Dushanbe, and looked down the valley to the Capital. I cruised down with a scrap of scat melody in my head, which I decided to call Dushanbe Blues, and proceeded to sing, much to the consternation of passers by. I felt to too high to care, elated by the prospect of a new city (or even any city) and a warm shower chez Véronique, a warmshowers host in Dushanbe with a stellar reputation for hospitality. I made it to Veronique’s just before sunset, just in time for dinner (quelle chance…!) with her and her son Gabriel.

More to follow tomorrow to bring you up to speed on developments in Dushanbe!

Categories: Uncategorized | 3 Comments

Post navigation

3 thoughts on “Day 4: Dushanbe Blues

  1. Ellie and Ian

    So good finally to hear the details of your solo trip, but such a shame about your Swiss army knife. It’s seen you through previous wild adventures on D of E (well, everything’s relative!) but to be stolen by an unworthy waiter inTajikistan, after so much kindness and hospitality from everyone else, is very sad..

  2. IanS

    I sympathize. I had a ballpoint pen stolen by a pickpocket on the Great Wall of China. It wasn’t worth much but it had been with me every day for years and it was decorated for a Queen’s Award that the project I was working on had won, so irreplaceable.

  3. I didn’t want to go to bed without acknowledging all your recent posts Alex. Thank you VERY MUCH X
    Really nice to get all these varied stories and only too sorry for your actual predicament.
    Very happy that you have a wonderful “accueil à la française,” how VERY nice of Véronique and I hope you can indeed meet-up with Nicolas ASAP !
    As for the challenge ….. I would rather try to “forget” it…. it doesn’t help my sleeping…. I hope he would rather choose to enjoy the ride that compete with a deadline … but hey ! we all know NIcolas….
    Fingers crossed for your recovery

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s

Create a free website or blog at

%d bloggers like this: