We Are Still on the Ferry!

A 20 hour crossing to Aktau did not do what it says on the tin. Into a headwind most of the way, our progress was slowed such that we fell a few hours behind schedule. My failed attempts to get up for sunrise (it was still dark at 5 and 6 o’clock!) only briefly interrupted solid periods of deep sleep for both of us. Hours up on the empty top deck reading and writing blogs occupied us between meals and left us with plenty of time to think about our coming journey…

We were hoping to cycle off on Friday morning from Aktau needing to reach the border post with Uzbekistan 530 km down the road before it closes on the 27th. That left us with 5 days of riding more than 100km through the Kazakh steppe. Hot and dusty, this road and its continuation in Uzbekistan is known in cycle touring circles as the worst road in the world. We will wait to pass judgment, but are not expecting a particularly joyous ride – a serious challenge awaits. In the meantime, our bikes are ridiculously heavy due to extra supplies and about 12.5L of water each but at least this desert is flat!

As the evening wore on, and we were told via hand signals that another ship was in port, we heard the anchor being lowered with Aktau tauntingly close. We will now not get off the ship before at least midday on Friday and will have to push back our plans by a day, giving us 3 days to ride the 480km to Beyneu…






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2 thoughts on “We Are Still on the Ferry!

  1. Peter Holding

    It was a pleasure to meet you both. Jacob and I enjoyed our 40k taster of what life is like out on the road for you. We didn’t enjoy the 40k run back to Aktau quite so much – headwind and lots of traffic.
    We’ll be watching your progress with some envy but a lot of admiration. Take care out there!

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